At 2,410 metres, the Selim Pass is the high point of the old road between Lake Sevan and the Vayots Dzor valley, and it is a stern, beautiful place. The pass crosses the Vardenis range, a line of bare volcanic mountains, and the road climbs in long bends through rolling alpine meadows, where the grass is cropped short by sheep and the wind blows steadily. At the top, the scenery is open and empty, with no trees, only grass, rocks and sky, and the visibility on a clear day is enormous.
The road follows an ancient line. For centuries, caravans carrying silk, spices and other goods crossed here on their way between Persia and the Black Sea, and the pass was one of the key links on that branch of the Silk Road. Remains of the route can still be seen in places, and the pass is dotted with cairns and crosses. Travellers on this high road needed shelter, and the caravanserai at the summit, built in the fourteenth century, provided it.
Conditions can change in minutes. The pass is open in summer, usually from May or June until October, but heavy snow can close it from late autumn to spring, and storms can sweep in even in July, with cold rain, hail and low cloud. Dress for cold and wet, and check the weather before starting. Fog is common, and in bad visibility the road is hard to follow, with few barriers and steep drops on the outside of some bends. The surface is a mixture of tarmac and broken patches, so watch for potholes. A good, well-paced approach rewards you.
Wildlife is part of the show. Griffon vultures and eagles ride the winds, and marmots whistle from the rocks. In spring and early summer the meadows burst with flowers, including poppies and gentians. Shepherds bring their flocks up from the valleys for the summer pastures, and you may find sheepdogs, which are large and serious, watching you from the roadside. Treat them politely.
The nearest villages, Yeghegis and Shatin, have little more than a shop, and the nearest town with proper services is Karanlukh, or Yeghegnadzor, in the valley. Fill up before you climb, carry water and a layer, and take your time. A stop at the summit, with the wind at your back and the whole of the range spread out beneath you, is a good reward.