Sehlabathebe is about as far from anywhere as you can get in southern Africa, and that is its charm. The national park, in the south-east corner of Lesotho against the Drakensberg escarpment, was among the first protected areas in the country and is high, empty and rarely visited, a plateau at nearly 2,500 metres of grass, wetland and sandstone outcrops. The name is often translated as plateau of the shield, and the surrounding hills do have a wide, rounded look.
Weathering has sculpted the sandstone into arches, caves and balancing rocks, and clear pools and streams collect in hollows, home to a small population of fish and many frogs. The park is a stronghold for the bearded vulture, as well as the rare Maloti minnow, a tiny fish found only in this part of the world, and its quiet trails, rock overhangs with San paintings and streams make it a favourite with hikers and anglers. Pony treks are available, and visitors tend to stay several days.
The road to get here is a serious undertaking. From Qacha's Nek, a border town to the south, the way runs over rough tracks and high ground, with deep ruts, washouts and river crossings, and from the north it is no easier. It is strictly the realm of experienced riders on suitable bikes, with spare tubes, tools and a plan, and it is wise to travel with others. Weather changes quickly, and mist, rain and snow can make the track impassable. Ask locally before you go, and expect to take much longer than the map suggests.
Fill up in Qacha's Nek or Matatiele before the long run, and add a reserve. The lodge and campsite offer basic accommodation, and the night sky is dazzling. Take warm clothes, a good map and a means of calling for help, since there is little mobile coverage. The reward is silence and a landscape few ever see.