Nobody forgets their first sight of the aqueduct. Coming into Segovia, the road suddenly opens onto the Plaza del Azoguejo, and there it is, a double row of granite arches striding across the square, nearly thirty metres high at its tallest point, built by the Romans around two thousand years ago without a trace of mortar. It carried water from the Sierra de Guadarrama into the city for centuries, and it still stands, perfectly balanced, one of the most impressive Roman monuments anywhere.
Segovia has much more than the aqueduct. The old town, a World Heritage Site, sits on a rocky ridge between two rivers, and at its western tip the Alcázar, a castle with slender towers and conical slate roofs, rises above the confluence like a ship's prow. In 1474 Isabella of Castile was proclaimed queen in Segovia, beginning a reign that would unite Spain and change the world. The late Gothic cathedral, one of the last built in Spain, dominates the main square with its golden stone.
Segovia is famous for its roast suckling pig, cochinillo asado, so tender that waiters traditionally cut it with the edge of a plate before smashing the plate on the floor. It is rich, heavy and delicious, and probably best enjoyed at the end of the day rather than in the middle of a ride. The town is full of restaurants serving it, along with other Castilian specialities like roast lamb and judiones, large white beans stewed with pork.
The ride to Segovia from Madrid crosses the Sierra de Guadarrama, either through the motorway tunnel or over one of the mountain passes, such as the Puerto de Navacerrada, with its winding climb through pine forests. The descent towards Segovia passes the royal palace of La Granja de San Ildefonso, with its Versailles-inspired gardens and fountains. Segovia has fuel and all services, but the old town has narrow, cobbled streets with restricted access, so it is best to park outside and walk in. Winters can be cold, with snow on the mountains; summers are warm but cooler than Madrid.