Manco Inca fled here with his army in 1537, after his great siege of Cusco failed, and Vitcos became the capital of what was left of the Inca Empire. For thirty-five years, in the jungle-covered mountains of Vilcabama, the last independent Incas held out against the Spaniards, raiding Spanish roads, sheltering rebels and keeping alive the old religion. In 1572 the Spaniards finally reached the inner refuge and captured Tupac Amaru, the last Inca, who was taken to Cusco and beheaded in the main square.
The site of Vitcos lies on a hill near the village of Rosaspata, in the valley of Vilcabamba, and nearby stands Yurak Rumi, the White Rock, a huge boulder carved into seats, steps and channels where the Incas held ceremonies. Both are part of the Qhapaq Nan, the Great Inca Road, the web of mountain paths, terraces and stairways that connected the empire from Colombia to Chile and Argentina, and which UNESCO listed in 2014 across six countries. This segment runs from Vitcos towards the Choquetacarpo pass, a high saddle where the trail crosses between valleys.
Getting here is an expedition, not a day-trip. The nearest town of size is Santa Ana, now usually called Quillabamba, a warm, low-altitude town of around twenty-five thousand people, where coffee and cacao are grown. You will find fuel, food and basic repairs there, and little beyond. The road to the Vilcabamba valley is rough, unpaved, steep and exposed, with landslides in the rainy season, river fords and sections where the edge falls away. Only experienced off-road riders with suitable bikes should consider it, and nobody should go alone. The approach from Cusco, over the Abra Malaga pass above four thousand metres, is one of the great high roads of Peru and a fine ride in itself.
Altitude is a serious factor, and nights are cold. The dry season, from May to September, is the safest time, with clear skies. The wet months, from December to March, bring heavy rain and slides.
Take a local guide, because paths are not always signed, and ask permission before crossing farmland. Try the local coffee, which is outstanding.