East of Lima, the land climbs fast. The Rímac valley begins at the coast as a green ribbon through the desert and rises toward the Andes, and Santa Rosa de Chontay and Molle lie in the foothills above Chosica, a town of nearly ninety thousand about ten kilometres off. Here the coastal fog that blankets Lima for much of the year gives way to sun, which is why Chosica earned the nickname of the city of the sun and why wealthy Lima families kept weekend houses here.
This segment belongs to the Qhapaq Ñan, the great Inca road network, which ran along both coast and mountains for thousands of kilometres. Roads like this one climbed from the Pacific valleys toward the high passes, linking the oracle at Pachacamac on the coast with the highland centres, with stone steps, retaining walls and way stations built for runners and llama trains. Little of the stonework looks dramatic, but a path cut into a steep slope and still walkable five hundred years later is more impressive than it sounds.
For the rider, the modern road beside the old one is the Carretera Central, the Central Highway, which climbs up the Rímac valley past Chosica and Matucana to the pass at Ticlio, about 4,800 metres, one of the highest paved passes in the world. The road has fine curves, tunnels and drop-offs, and heavy truck traffic that grinds up the grades in clouds of diesel. In the rainy months, from January to March, landslides called huaycos can bury sections of road, so check conditions before you set out. The railway that follows the valley reaches a summit station higher than any other standard-gauge line.
Fuel is easy in Chosica, which has stations on the main street, but it thins out above Matucana, so top up before climbing. Chosica has small restaurants serving ceviche, roast chicken and cold chicha morada, a sweet drink made from purple maize, and fruit stalls along the road sell chirimoya and mango in season.
The altitude rise from sea level to the pass in a few hours can bring on headaches and breathlessness, so climb slowly and carry water.