The mountains above Lima rise quickly from the desert coast, and within a couple of hours the city's sprawl gives way to steep valleys, terraced slopes and high villages perched on spurs. The segment of the Inca road between San Juan de Tantaranche and Huarochirí runs through this country, part of the Qhapaq Ñan route that linked the sanctuary of Pachacamac on the coast with the highland centre of Xauxa, crossing near the sacred mountain of Pariacaca.
Huarochirí is famous among historians for a document compiled around 1600, the Huarochirí Manuscript, which records in Quechua the myths and rituals of the people of this region, including stories about Pariacaca and the other mountain gods. It is one of the most important sources for understanding Andean religion before the Spanish conquest. Walking a stretch of the old road, with its stone steps and walls, through a landscape of terraces still farmed today, gives that history a physical presence.
The riding requires commitment. The main route from Lima into the highlands is the Carretera Central through the Rímac valley via Matucana, one of the busiest truck roads in Peru, climbing to the pass at Ticlio at over 4,800 metres. To reach Huarochirí and Tantaranche, you leave the main roads and follow smaller valleys, such as those of the Lurín or Mala rivers, on roads that are often unpaved, narrow and winding, with steep drops and landslides in the rainy season.
The altitude changes are extreme: from sea level to over 3,000 metres in a few hours. Take time to acclimatise, drink water and watch for headaches or dizziness. The weather is dry on the coast but can be cold and wet in the mountains, especially from December to March. The dry season from May to October is best for riding.
Matucana, thirty-seven kilometres away, has fuel, food and basic services, and Chosica, closer to Lima, offers more. In the villages fuel may be scarce, so carry a spare. Food is hearty mountain fare: soups, potatoes, cheese, trout and roasted meats. The people are welcoming, but life is hard in these high communities, and visitors who show interest in their traditions are usually well received.