The Inca road did not end at the Ecuadorian border; it ran on through the Andes of southern Ecuador towards Cuenca and Quito, and segments of it survive in the province of Loja, among them this one between San José, Llamacanchi and Las Limas. It is a remote stretch in hill country near the Peruvian border, where the Andes are lower and drier than further north, and the road crosses ridges and valleys covered with scrub, pasture and patches of seasonally dry forest. It belongs to the Qhapaq Ñan World Heritage site, which spans six countries.
The landscape is surprisingly varied. In the rainy season, from roughly January to April, the hills turn green, rivers swell and the dry forest bursts into leaf. In the dry months, the land becomes brown and dusty, and the forests lose their leaves, revealing the twisted forms of ceibo trees with their swollen green trunks. Higher up, the ridges are cooler and often cloud-capped, with farmland and small villages.
The riding is for those who like adventure. Roads in this part of Loja are often narrow, winding and unpaved, with steep gradients, loose gravel and sharp bends. Surfaces can deteriorate quickly after rain, with mud and landslides, and some routes may become impassable. Traffic is light, mostly trucks, buses and local pickups. A dual-sport bike with good tyres is the right tool. Cariamanga, the nearest town, is reached via a paved road from Loja that is a fine ride in its own right, with long climbs and views over deep valleys.
The region has a long history. Before the Inca, the Palta people lived in these mountains, and the Inca incorporated them into their empire in the fifteenth century. After the Spanish conquest, the area became a quiet rural backwater, known for cattle, coffee and sugarcane. Today, the towns are small and friendly, with central plazas, churches and markets.
Cariamanga, about twenty-five kilometres away, has fuel, food and basic accommodation. Ayabaca, across the border in Peru, is another option, though border formalities apply. Carry extra fuel and water if you plan to explore the back roads. Local food includes cecina, thin slices of salted pork, and repe, a hearty green banana soup that is a staple of Loja.