Lima is one of the driest capitals on earth, and yet just south of it, in the hills above the Lurín valley, the desert turns green for a few months every year. The Lomas de Quebrada Verde are fog oases, where the winter mist called garúa, rolling in from the cold Pacific between roughly June and October, condenses on the hillsides and brings to life a brief explosion of grass, flowers, cacti and shrubs, attracting birds, butterflies and the people of Lima, who come here to walk. The segment between Quebrada Verde and Pachacamac is part of the Qhapaq Ñan, the Inca road system, which linked the coast with the highlands.
Pachacamac, at the end of the segment near the mouth of the Lurín river, was one of the most important religious centres of ancient Peru, a sanctuary dedicated to the creator god Pachacamac, whose oracle drew pilgrims from all over the Andes for more than a thousand years before the Incas arrived. The Incas incorporated it into their empire and built a temple to the sun on a hill overlooking the sea. The site, with its adobe pyramids, temples and plazas, has an excellent modern museum.
Riding here means getting out of Lima, which can be a challenge, with heavy, chaotic traffic, aggressive drivers and few rules respected. Once out of the city, the Panamericana Sur runs along the coast, a fast highway through the desert, and the roads up the Lurín valley offer a pleasant escape, with orchards, fields and villages, leading toward Cieneguilla and the highlands. Roads to the lomas are unpaved and dusty. In winter, the coast is grey and humid; in summer, from December to March, it is sunny and hot.
Lurín and Pachacamac have fuel, shops and restaurants, and Lima has everything you could need. The Lurín valley is known for its country restaurants serving traditional dishes like pachamanca, chicharrón and fresh fish from the coast, and on weekends families flock here for lunch. The beaches to the south, such as San Bartolo and Punta Hermosa, are popular with surfers. Bring a windproof jacket for the lomas, as the fog can be chilly.