It is part of the Qhapaq Ñan, the Inca road network, a web of about thirty thousand kilometres of paved and stepped paths that linked the empire from Colombia to Chile and Argentina, and which UNESCO listed in 2014 across six countries. A segment named for a portachuelo, a small pass, and a lake, Laguna Escalera, suggests a path that climbs from a valley through a notch in the ridge and drops to a lake on the far side, as Inca roads often do.
Inca engineers built their roads to last. They cut steps into slopes, laid stone paving, built drainage channels and retaining walls, and strung rope suspension bridges across gorges. Runners called chasquis carried messages along the route in relays, and storehouses and rest stations stood at intervals. In these highlands the path might cross puna grassland at four thousand metres or more, with vicuña and alpaca grazing, glacial lakes in the hollows and snow peaks above.
On a motorbike, altitude is the main factor. The Carretera Central, which climbs from Lima toward La Oroya and passes through Ticlio at about 4,800 metres, is a spectacular but demanding road, with lorries, mist and cold. Engines lose power in the thin air, and riders can feel headaches and breathlessness, so go up gradually and drink water. Weather turns quickly, with hail and sleet even in the dry season from May to September, which is the best time. Landslides and roadworks occur in the rainy season, from December to March.
There are petrol stations in the towns along the main road, but not on the side tracks, so fill up in Lima or the last big town and carry a spare. Ask locals about the condition of tracks before committing, and respect any community land. Carry warm layers, a first-aid kit and plenty of water, and tell someone where you are going.