Above Ollantaytambo, where the Sacred Valley of the Incas narrows, a side valley climbs north toward the high passes of the Urubamba range, following the Patacancha river. The segment between Patacancha and Huacahuasi is part of the Qhapaq Ñan, the Inca road system, and it crosses some of the most beautiful country in the Cusco region: steep slopes covered with potato fields and terraces, small villages of stone and adobe houses, herds of llamas and alpacas grazing in high pastures, and snow-capped peaks above. The communities of this area, like Patacancha and Huacahuasi, are known for their weaving, with intricate designs and bright colours, and the women's traditional dress is among the most striking in the Andes.
This is the route of the Lares trek, an alternative to the classic Inca Trail, which passes through remote villages and over high passes, and many visitors choose it to experience the living culture of the Andes. Huacahuasi has hot springs that are a welcome reward after a day of walking or riding.
The road up the Patacancha valley from Ollantaytambo is mostly unpaved, a dirt track that climbs steadily with switchbacks and river crossings, reaching altitudes above four thousand metres. It is a demanding but rewarding ride, best suited to light adventure bikes. Altitude is a serious factor, so acclimatise in Cusco or the Sacred Valley before going higher. The dry season, from May to September, is the best time to ride, with clear skies and firm roads; the rainy season brings mud and landslides.
Urubamba, about twenty-one kilometres away, is the nearest town with full services, including fuel, shops and restaurants, and Ollantaytambo, at the mouth of the valley, has a spectacular Inca fortress and temple and plenty of restaurants and hotels. In the villages, you may find small shops selling basic supplies, but carry food, water and extra fuel. The people are generally welcoming, and buying textiles directly from the weavers is a great way to support the community. Respect local customs and always ask before taking photographs of people.