East of the Cordillera Blanca, in the region of Ancash known as the Conchucos, the Inca road system, the Qhapaq Ñan, crossed some of the most rugged terrain of its entire network. This segment, near the small town of Yauya, is part of the main road that ran north from Cusco to Quito through the high Andes, linking administrative centres such as Huánuco Pampa to the south. The Inca engineers laid stone paving, built steps on steep slopes, retaining walls and drainage channels, and stretches of the road can still be walked today, threading across high grasslands and past lakes at altitudes well over three and a half thousand metres. The whole network, which crosses six countries, became a World Heritage site in 2014.
The landscape is enormous. The valleys drop steeply towards the Marañón River in the east, terraced fields cling to the slopes, and above, the grasslands of the puna stretch to rocky peaks. The weather changes quickly; the dry season, roughly from May to September, brings clear skies and cold nights, while the rainy season turns the tracks into mud and causes landslides. The light at this altitude is very bright, and the sun burns quickly.
Riding here is a serious undertaking. From Huaraz, the road crosses the Cordillera Blanca through the Punta Olímpica tunnel, one of the highest road tunnels in the world, with spectacular views of the glaciers on the way, then descends towards Chacas and San Luis. Other routes pass through Chavín de Huántar, with its ancient temple complex, essential for anyone interested in Andean history. Roads in the Conchucos are a mixture of new asphalt and dirt, with unprotected edges, landslides and few other vehicles. Altitude affects both rider and engine; take it slowly, drink coca tea, and plan for cold.
Fuel is available in the larger towns such as Huaraz, Chavín, San Luis and Pomabamba, but not always at the smaller ones, and it is wise to carry extra. Yauya has basic shops and lodging. The local food is hearty: soups with potatoes and quinoa, roasted guinea pig on special occasions, and fresh trout from the mountain lakes. Above all, respect the communities through which the road passes; it is still their road.