Few places in Peru feel as far from Lima as the eastern side of the Cordillera Blanca, in the Conchucos country of the Ancash region. The Inca road here was a mountain track, climbing from the valley of the Marañón up to the high grasslands, and the segment from Lomas de Huarin to Matacocha, part of the UNESCO Qhapaq Ñan listing of 2014, runs through a landscape of steep green slopes, terraced fields, small hamlets and a sky that feels very close. The towns are Pomabamba, a market town known for hot springs, and Yauya, a smaller place in a side valley, with farms and a busy Sunday market.
The Conchucos people were fierce enough that the Incas needed years to subdue them, and they left behind stone towers, burial houses and fortified hilltop settlements. Today the valleys are farmland, with potatoes, maize and wheat in small plots, and mule trains still carry loads along the older tracks. Quechua is spoken in the villages, and visitors are greeted warmly if they arrive with patience.
The riding, however, is clear. The road from Huaraz crosses the Cordillera Blanca by the Punta Olímpica pass, at around four thousand seven hundred metres, one of the highest paved passes in the Americas, with a tunnel at the crest and views of glaciers and peaks over six thousand metres. Beyond it the road descends to Chacas and further to the Conchucos valleys, with hairpins, rough patches and cattle. Fuel is easy in Huaraz, but scarce in small towns, so carry spare and top up whenever you can. Weather changes fast, and cold, hail and fog can arrive in an hour.
The dry months from May to September give the clearest views, though nights are freezing. The rainy season turns tracks into mud and brings landslides. Altitude is a serious factor, so spend a couple of days in Huaraz before the pass, and carry warm clothes, snacks and water. After a long day, the hot pools at Pomabamba are the best reward a rider can imagine.