High in the southern Andes of Ecuador, in the province of Cañar, a stretch of Inca road runs between the small towns of El Tambo and Honorato Vásquez, part of the Qhapaq Ñan World Heritage Site. The name El Tambo itself comes from the Inca word for a waystation, where travellers could rest and find supplies. This route was part of the great road that ran north from Cusco to Quito, and in this area it passed close to Ingapirca, the largest Inca site in Ecuador.
Ingapirca, a few kilometres away, is a remarkable place. The Cañari people, who lived here before the Inca conquest, had a ceremonial centre on the site, and the Inca built a temple of the sun on top, with fine stonework typical of Cusco. The elliptical structure, the remains of storehouses and living quarters, and the surrounding landscape make it one of the most impressive sites in the country.
The landscape around El Tambo is high and green, with fields of potatoes, maize and beans, pastures with cattle and sheep, and eucalyptus groves. The altitude is around 3,000 metres, so the air is thin and cool, and the weather can change quickly from sun to rain and fog. The people are mostly Cañari, with distinctive dress, including white felt hats.
Riding in this region is spectacular. The Pan-American Highway runs through the area, with curves and climbs, and the roads to Ingapirca and the surrounding villages are narrower and steeper. Traffic includes buses, trucks and animals, and the road surface can be poor in places, with potholes and landslides in the rainy season. Fog is common, especially in the afternoon, so ride early.
Cañar, five kilometres away, has fuel and simple places to eat, and Azogues and Cuenca further south have proper workshops and hotels. Sunday markets in the Cañar towns are a riot of colour, with roast pork, hominy and, for the brave, cuy, roast guinea pig, the festive dish of the Andes.