The Inca built a road through the Andes of Ecuador as they did elsewhere, and in the south of the country a stretch of it runs through the hills near Saraguro, north of the city of Loja. This is a section of the Qhapaq Ñan, the great Andean road system recognised by UNESCO in 2014, and the segment from Ciudadela to Vinoyaco Grande follows a paved or cobbled path across high grassland and over low ridges, with stone steps in the steep places and drains to keep the water off. Saraguro is known for its indigenous people, the Saraguros, who wear black clothing, the men in knee-length trousers and flat hats and the women with shawls and long pleated skirts, and who keep a strong tradition of farming and festivals.
The land is high, cool and green. This is the páramo country, and the fields of maize and potato, the eucalyptus woods and the open pasture climb to over three thousand metres. Mist drifts in during the afternoon, and rain is frequent. Cattle graze, women spin wool as they walk, and from some points on the ridge the line of the old road can be traced across the slope. Podocarpus National Park, a vast area of cloud forest near Loja, is among the richest places for plants and birds in South America, with hummingbirds, spectacled bears and orchids.
Ecuador's main north-south road, the Panamericana, runs through Saraguro, and it is a good ride, with long curves, mountains and views, mixed with trucks and buses. The surface is generally sound, with potholes after rain, and fog on the passes can be sudden and thick. The back roads to the sites are gravel or dirt. Altitude affects engines and riders alike, and nights can be cold. The dry season, from June to September, is the best time, though weather in the Andes can change in an hour.
Loja, twenty-nine kilometres away, is a city of over a hundred thousand, with fuel stations, workshops, markets and restaurants, and it is known for its music and universities. Saraguro has fuel and basic services. Try a plate of cuy, roasted guinea pig, or a humble but hearty locro, a potato and cheese soup, and a cup of local coffee, since Loja province is known for its beans. Carry cash and water, and respect local customs by asking before photographing people, especially women in traditional dress.