The Qhapaq Ñan, the great road system of the Inca Empire, stretched over thirty thousand kilometres across the Andes, linking Cusco with the farthest corners of the empire, from southern Colombia to central Chile. In 2014, UNESCO listed it as a World Heritage Site across six countries, and the listing includes hundreds of individual segments, each a fragment of the network. The Chiwuanquiri segment lies in the high province of Canas, south of Cusco, near the village of Cahuanuyo, on the high puna at around four thousand metres. Here, the old road crosses open grassland, with stone paving, retaining walls and drainage channels still visible in places, and it is a moving experience to walk on a road built more than five centuries ago.
The same province is home to one of the most remarkable traditions in the Andes. The Q'eswachaka bridge, a suspension bridge woven from grass rope, spans the gorge of the Apurímac river, and every year the communities of the area gather to rebuild it by hand, using techniques passed down from the Incas. The ritual lasts several days and has been recognised by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage. If you are in the area at the right time, usually in June, it is an unforgettable sight.
The landscape is the high puna, a vast, rolling plateau of tough grass, with lakes, snow-capped peaks in the distance and herds of llamas and alpacas. The villages are small, built of adobe and stone, and the people speak Quechua as their first language. The air is thin, the sun intense, the nights freezing.
The riding is high and remote. The roads in the province are a mix of paved and unpaved, with long climbs, hairpins and variable surfaces, and they demand experience and respect. Altitude affects both rider and machine: bikes lose power, and riders can suffer from altitude sickness, so acclimatise in Cusco for several days before heading up. Weather changes quickly, with afternoon storms in the rainy season, from December to March.
Sicuani, about thirty kilometres away, is the nearest town with full services, fuel and mechanics. Carry extra fuel, water, warm clothing and food, and do not underestimate the distances. Try a cup of coca tea, which helps with the altitude.