In the mountains east of Lima, high above the desert coast, a stone path clings to the slopes of the province of Huarochirí. It is a section of the Qhapaq Ñan, the great Inca road system, which in this region linked the sacred coastal sanctuary of Pachacamac with Jauja and the central highlands. The segment between Casila Alto and Chillaco is one of the stretches listed by UNESCO in 2014 as part of the transnational Andean Road System. The Inca engineers built it with retaining walls, steps and drainage channels to cope with the steep terrain and seasonal rains, and parts are still used by local farmers and their animals.
The landscape changes dramatically with altitude. Down in the valleys, the climate is dry and sunny, with cacti and irrigated fields of fruit and vegetables. As you climb, the slopes become greener, with terraces built by pre-Inca and Inca farmers, small villages and grazing land. Higher still, the puna begins, with its cold winds, grass and llamas. The region is known for its traditional festivals and for the Huarochirí Manuscript, a collection of Andean myths written down in Quechua around 1600, one of the most important sources on the ancient religion of the area.
The riding is challenging and spectacular. The roads leading up from the Rímac and Lurín valleys are narrow, winding and often unpaved, with steep drops and hairpin bends. The Carretera Central, the main highway into the mountains, is notorious for heavy truck traffic, and the climb from the coast is relentless, gaining altitude quickly. In the rainy season, from December to March, landslides known as huaicos can block roads and cause serious damage. Altitude sickness is a real risk, so take it easy, drink water and allow your body to adjust.
Chosica, about twenty-five kilometres away, is the nearest large town, with fuel, food and accommodation. It is known for its sunny climate, which makes it a popular escape from the coastal fog of Lima in winter. Ricardo Palma and other smaller towns have basic services. Try pachamanca, meat and potatoes cooked in an earth oven, or fresh trout from the mountain rivers.