For the people of the old Ryukyu Kingdom, there was no holier place than Sēfa-utaki, a grove of forest and rock on the southeastern tip of Okinawa island. An utaki is a sacred site in the Ryukyuan religion, often a grove, a rock or a spring, where gods are believed to descend, and this one was the most important of all. The kingdom's highest priestess, the Kikoe-ōkimi, usually a woman of the royal family, was inaugurated here, and for centuries men were not allowed to enter.
The path leads through dense subtropical forest to a series of shrines among the rocks. The most striking is Sangūi, where two massive rock slabs lean against each other to form a triangular passage. Walking through, you come to a small clearing where you can look out over the sea to Kudaka Island, a low, flat island believed to be where the creator goddess Amamikyu first descended to make the Ryukyu islands. The atmosphere is quiet and reverent, and visitors are asked to behave with respect. Sēfa-utaki is part of the UNESCO site of the Gusuku Sites and Related Properties of the Kingdom of Ryukyu, listed in 2000.
The Ryukyu Kingdom was an independent maritime state for several centuries, trading with China, Japan and Southeast Asia, before being annexed by Japan in the nineteenth century. Its culture, language, music and cuisine are distinct from mainland Japan, and you will notice the difference everywhere: in the red-tiled roofs, the shisa lion-dog guardians on the houses, and the food, such as goya champuru, a stir-fry with bitter melon.
The riding in southern Okinawa is pleasant and relaxed. The roads along the coast near Sēfa-utaki have views of the turquoise sea and coral reefs, and the Niraikanai Bridge nearby sweeps down from the hills in a great curve towards the coast, with a spectacular view. Traffic can be heavy around Naha, but the rural roads in the south are quieter. Driving is on the left.
Fuel, food and supplies are easy to find in Nanjō and the surrounding towns. The weather is subtropical: warm all year, very hot and humid in summer, with typhoons possible from summer into autumn. Winter is mild and the best season for riding. Bring water and sun protection, and take your time in the grove.