Sedona's red rocks look so unreal that visitors often assume they have been lit for effect. Cathedral Rock, Bell Rock, Courthouse Butte and a ring of cliffs the colour of rust and terracotta rise from the juniper and cypress woodland around the town, and in the early morning and at sunset, the light catches the sandstone and turns it fiery. The colour comes from iron oxide in the layers of rock, deposited over hundreds of millions of years, and then carved by wind and water into spires and buttes. About ten thousand people live in the town itself, at around 4,350 feet, in a place that has grown from a few orchards and a small post office in the early twentieth century, when it was named after Sedona Schnebly, the wife of an early settler.
The Red Rock Scenic Byway, State Route 179, runs from the interstate south of town to the heart of Sedona, about fifteen miles through the rocks. It passes Bell Rock, Courthouse Butte and Cathedral Rock, with wide shoulders and pull-offs and a series of roundabouts, and the road is smooth and relaxed. Traffic is the main problem, since Sedona is one of the most visited places in Arizona, and weekends and holidays can mean long queues of cars. A Red Rock Pass or another recreation permit is needed for parking at many trailheads.
Oak Creek Canyon, to the north on US 89A, offers the better ride. The road drops into a deep canyon with steep walls, pine forest and a clear stream, in a series of tight switchbacks, with some of the sharpest corners found in Arizona. The air is cooler and the shade welcome in summer. Beyond the canyon, the road climbs to Flagstaff, past stands of aspen, and the contrast with the red rock below is striking.
Fuel and food are easy in Sedona, with plenty of cafes, bakeries and Mexican and southwestern restaurants. Rooms are expensive, so book ahead. Many visitors talk about vortexes, spots of supposed spiritual energy, and shops sell crystals and tours. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with warm days and cool nights, while July brings heat and thunderstorms.