Sedlo means saddle, and this one, at 1,907 metres, is the high point of the road that circles the Durmitor massif in the north of Montenegro. The road climbs through forest and then through bare limestone country, where the trees thin out and the ridges seem to catch the sky, and at the top, a pass opens to a view of Bobotov Kuk, the highest peak of the range at 2,523 metres, with its grey cliffs streaked with snow. The air is thin, clean and cold, and the silence is broken only by wind and the bells of sheep.
Durmitor National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1980, covers a wild mix of glacial lakes, pine forests and deep canyons, including the Tara, whose gorge is up to thirteen hundred metres deep, among the deepest in Europe. The town of Zabljak, ten kilometres from here, is the highest in the Balkans at about 1,450 metres, and a base for hikers in summer and skiers in winter. Close by, the Black Lake, a glacial pool ringed by pines, is a pleasant spot for a walk.
Shepherds have used the high pastures for centuries, moving their flocks up in summer and living in simple wooden huts called katuns, and you may see them by the road. Cheese, smoked ham and kajmak, a rich, salty cream, are the local foods, served with fresh bread and a glass of rakija, the plum brandy. A meal in a village inn here is simple and filling, and the hospitality is warm. Ask what is fresh, and be prepared for large portions.
The road over Sedlo is paved but narrow, with tight bends, steep sections and patches of broken tarmac. There are few barriers, and the drops are real. Sheep, cows and horses wander across, so slow down on blind corners. In winter and early spring, snow closes the pass, and even in June, patches of ice may linger in shaded gullies. Fuel is available in Zabljak, which has about two thousand people, but the larger town of Niksic, thirty-seven kilometres away, has more choice, so fill the tank beforehand. Weather changes quickly, with fog and sudden storms, so carry rain gear and layers. The best time to ride is from late June to September, with clear mornings and quiet roads.