The Sunshine Coast is not an island, but it might as well be. Although it is part of the mainland of British Columbia, no road connects it to Vancouver; you have to take a ferry from Horseshoe Bay across Howe Sound to Langdale, and the forty-minute crossing, through a fjord of forested mountains, sets the tone for a place that feels removed from the rush of the city. Sechelt, the main town, sits on a narrow isthmus between the Strait of Georgia and the long, sheltered Sechelt Inlet.
Sechelt is the home of the shíshálh Nation, which in 1986 became the first Indigenous community in Canada to achieve self-government through federal legislation. The nation's cultural centre in town has exhibits about its history and traditions. The town itself is relaxed and friendly, with a waterfront promenade, galleries, cafés and restaurants, and it makes a good place for a meal at the end of a ride.
The Sunshine Coast Highway, Highway 101, runs along the coast from Langdale through Gibsons and Sechelt to Earls Cove, where another ferry crosses Jervis Inlet to the northern part of the coast. The road winds through forests and along the shore, with views of the water and the islands, and it is a pleasant, relaxed ride, though it can be busy in summer. Near Egmont, at the northern end of Sechelt Inlet, the Skookumchuck Narrows are a natural wonder, where the tidal currents create some of the fastest tidal rapids in the world, with whirlpools and standing waves. A walking trail through the forest leads to viewpoints.
Sechelt has fuel, supermarkets and plenty of places to eat, from fish and chips to more refined restaurants. The ferry schedule dictates the rhythm of travel on the coast, and in summer the ferries can be full, so reserve or arrive early. The weather is mild but often wet, though the coast lives up to its name more often than Vancouver does.