Seattle runs on water. The city is squeezed between Puget Sound on the west and Lake Washington on the east, and is cut through by canals and bridges, so that every day involves a shore of some kind. Elliott Bay holds the working waterfront, with the ferry terminal at Colman Dock and the old piers, and ferries still carry commuters and tourists to Bainbridge Island and Bremerton, past a skyline that looks best from the deck.
The Space Needle, built for the 1962 World's Fair, is the symbol, and Pike Place Market, open since 1907, is the heart. Fishmongers throw salmon, flower sellers fill the aisles, and the first Starbucks opened nearby in 1971. Coffee culture is serious here, so the stop for a good espresso is no problem at all. On a clear day, Mount Rainier appears to the south as a huge white dome, seeming almost too large to be real, and the Olympic Mountains form a jagged wall to the west across the Sound.
The ride toward the Olympics starts with the ferry, which is part of the fun. You queue with the bike at the terminal, ride aboard, and cross the water in about half an hour, with gulls hanging off the stern. Beyond, the roads of the Kitsap and Olympic Peninsulas run through dark forest of Douglas fir and cedar, with curving, well-kept highways and moderate traffic. Rain is common from October to April, and the roads can be greasy, with moss and wet leaves. Summer is generally dry and bright, the best time for riding.
Fuel and food are no trouble in a city of more than six hundred thousand. Parking in the centre is expensive, so look for a lot with an attendant or use the ferry terminal area. Ferry lines can be long on summer weekends, so arrive early. Seattle drivers are generally courteous but freeway traffic jams are legendary, and the best hours for riding out of town are early morning or mid-day.