Haltwhistle likes to call itself the centre of Britain, a claim based on being halfway between the north and south coasts of the island, and while other towns dispute it, nobody disputes that it is the best base for exploring the central section of Hadrian's Wall. Just north of the town, on the rough ground below the crags, Seatsides 1 Roman temporary camp is one of several marching camps where Roman troops on the move dug defences for a night or longer, and the label includes a section of the vallum nearby. It is all part of the Frontiers of the Roman Empire World Heritage site.
The camps are best seen from the air, as faint rectangles in the grass, but on the ground you can sometimes make out the low ridges of the ramparts. Nearby, Cawfields, a former quarry now a picnic site with a small lake, has a fine stretch of the Wall climbing over the crags, with a milecastle perched on the slope. Great Chesters fort, a short walk west, is a quieter, less excavated site with an altar still standing in its ruins.
Haltwhistle itself is a small market town with a long history. In the reiving centuries it was a lawless place, and several of its old houses are fortified bastles, with thick walls and living quarters above a ground floor where livestock could be secured during raids. The parish church of the Holy Cross is one of the finest in Northumberland. South of the town, the South Tyne flows through a wooded valley, and roads lead up towards Alston and the North Pennines, an area of outstanding natural beauty with high moors and remote villages.
The riding here is varied and excellent. The Military Road runs just north of Haltwhistle, with dramatic views over the crags. The A689 from Alston to Brampton, and the roads over the North Pennines towards Weardale and Teesdale, include some of the highest and most scenic roads in England, with long climbs, sweeping bends and huge views. Hartside Pass, on the A686 near Alston, is a favourite with riders. Be prepared for changeable weather and strong winds on the high ground.
Haltwhistle, under four kilometres away, has fuel, shops, cafés and pubs. Haydon Bridge and Hexham are further east. On a fine evening, the walk up to Cawfields and along the Wall is a perfect way to end a day in the saddle.