Schwansen is the little peninsula that sticks out into the Baltic between the Schlei inlet and Eckernförde Bay, and it is one of the quieter corners of Schleswig-Holstein. The land is low, rolling and green, at only a few tens of metres above the sea, and the villages of Damp, Waabs and Rieseby are separated by fields, small woods and hedgerows. It was once part of the old Danish duchy of Schleswig, and the mix of Danish and German history shows in the names and the architecture.
The characteristic feature of the landscape is the Knick, a hedge-topped earth bank that divides the fields, planted by farmers centuries ago to shelter crops and mark boundaries. The lanes that run between them are narrow and gently winding, giving a sense of riding in a green tunnel, and in May the rapeseed fields flare yellow against a blue sky. The manor houses of the peninsula, large brick houses with parks, recall the days of the Danish and German nobility who owned the land, and some are open to visitors.
The sea is never far away. On the northern shore the Schlei, a long, narrow fjord-like inlet, winds inland toward the town of Schleswig, and on the southern side the open Baltic shows through the trees. Damp is a seaside resort with a long beach and a small harbour, busy in summer and almost empty in autumn. Waabs has a pleasant beach and a quiet shore, and the cliffs of the coast are low but bring a sea breeze.
The riding is easy and relaxed, with very little traffic and a surface that is mostly good, though patched on the minor lanes. The gradients are gentle, and the pleasure lies in the rhythm of the bends and in the smell of the sea and cut grass. Wind can be strong, and rain showers sweep in quickly, so carry a waterproof.
Fuel is not guaranteed in the small villages; Kappeln, nine kilometres away, is the nearest town of any size and has stations and shops. Cafes in the villages serve coffee and cake, and a stop at a farm shop for local produce is a good idea. Late spring and early autumn are the best seasons.