Schwägalp is a saddle rather than a summit, and it has something of the feel of a clearing in the woods. At 1,278 metres it lies between Urnäsch, on the Appenzell side, and Neu St. Johann in the Toggenburg, and the pass road runs beside a mountain stream and the upper reaches of the Sitter river, through meadows grazed by brown cattle. Behind the hotel at the top rises the massive northern face of the Säntis, which seems close enough to touch.
The Urnäsch side of the climb gives you the character of Appenzell Ausserrhoden. The village of Urnäsch is known for its traditions, particularly the Silvesterchläuse, men dressed in elaborate costumes and huge bell-hung hats who walk through the countryside on the old New Year, in mid-January, driving out the evil spirits of winter. There is a museum in the village where the costumes are displayed, and the strange, beautiful masks are worth seeing. It is one of the surviving rituals of rural Switzerland, and the area still keeps it alive with great seriousness.
On the road, the climb is steady and smooth, with moderate bends and good visibility. The surface is generally good, and the gradient is never harsh, so the pass is a relaxed ride for most machines. The descent into the Toggenburg is a little steeper and more twisting, with views opening over a green valley that stretches toward the Churfirsten. Cold air gathers in the hollow at the top, so expect it to feel fresher than the valley towns.
Fuel is not available at the pass, although there is a hotel and a restaurant with a large terrace. Urnäsch has limited services, so the dependable choice is Appenzell, a quarter of an hour away. In winter the road is cleared and normally open, but snow and ice can make conditions difficult. A clear day in early autumn, with new snow on the summit and the larch turning, is one of the finest times to be there.