Schwaan lies on the Warnow river a short ride south of Rostock, and it is one of those small Mecklenburg towns that surprise you with a bit of art. In the late nineteenth century, painters were drawn to the Warnow valley for its meadows, light and quiet, and Schwaan became known as a colony of artists, a bit like Ahrenshoop on the coast. A small museum shows work from the period, and the old town still has a gentle, creative atmosphere. The Gothic brick church, built in the typical north German style of red brick, stands above the river and gives the place its character.
The Warnow is a slow, wide river that winds through wet meadows and reed beds on its way to the Baltic at Rostock. Along its banks, the land is flat and open, with willows and alders and the occasional heron standing in the shallows. The river was once a trade route, carrying grain and timber, and old mills and bridges still mark the water. In spring, the fields are bright yellow with rapeseed, and in summer they turn gold with wheat.
The riding here is soft and relaxed. The river road follows the valley with gentle bends, avenues of old trees and a surface that is mostly good, though some stretches of old tarmac are patched. Traffic is light, apart from farm vehicles, and the whole ride has an easy rhythm that suits a slow afternoon. Early morning, when mist lies over the water, is lovely, and evening gives a long, soft light across the fields. Wind can be a problem on exposed sections, and the road can be slick with leaves in autumn.
Schwaan has about five thousand people, so it has fuel, a supermarket, bakeries and a couple of cafés, and it is a sensible place to stop before moving on into the more rural country. The small cafés near the church serve cake and coffee, and the local bakeries sell fresh bread and pastries. Rostock, the large city nearby, offers everything else, with a historic centre, a harbour and a long Hanseatic history.
Take a moment on the bridge to look at the river. In summer, canoeists drift past, and in the evening the water reflects the sky in a long band of colour. If you have time, a short detour along the river to a mill or a ferry crossing gives a good sense of how the valley has worked for centuries.