The biggest lake in the Black Forest is not natural. The Schluchsee was created in the 1930s, when the valley was dammed to supply a hydroelectric scheme, flooding farms and hamlets and lifting the water level to form a long, slim lake in the high country at about 930 metres. It looks as though it has always been there, with forested hills on every side, and the older people in the villages can still remember the old landscape.
The town of Schluchsee, with about twenty-six hundred people, sits at the northern end and is a resort in every season. In summer people swim, sail, windsurf and paddle on the lake, with sandy beaches and a boat service across the water; in winter, it can freeze, and in the cold months the nearby ski lifts operate. Lenzkirch, a few kilometres away, is larger, with about five thousand people and the fuel, groceries and bakeries you will need.
The roads around the lake are among the nicest in the southern Black Forest. They twist through spruce and fir forest, up and down the hills, with views of the water through the trees, and the surface is generally good. Traffic can be heavy at weekends, particularly in summer, and some roads have motorcycle restrictions at weekends in parts of the region, so check the signs. The Feldberg, the highest peak in the Black Forest at nearly 1,500 metres, is a short ride away.
Cake is a serious matter here. The Black Forest cherry gateau, Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, is served in every cafe, along with smoked ham and the sharp local cherry brandy, kirsch. A slice and a coffee on the lake shore is a classic way to end a day. The water stays cool even in August, but swimmers are rewarded with clean water and a lovely setting. Early autumn, when the beeches colour and the mist hangs over the lake, is a particularly good season.