The Danube does something remarkable at Schlögen. Forced by hard granite, the river makes a tight double hairpin, the Schlögener Schlinge, turning back on itself twice in a deep, wooded valley in Upper Austria, and the view of it from above is one of the most famous in the country. A short walk from the river up through the forest leads to the Schlögener Blick viewpoint, where you can see the river coiling below like a green-brown snake between steep slopes.
Down by the water, at the village of Schlögen, the Romans built a small fort and a civilian settlement, part of the Danube frontier that ran through the province of Noricum. Excavations have uncovered the remains of a bath house, which can be seen in a protected building near the river, and the outline of the fort. It is part of the Frontiers of the Roman Empire – The Danube Limes, listed by UNESCO in 2021, and a quiet, evocative place, with the river slipping past only a few steps away.
The riding here is a pleasure. The B130 runs along the northern bank of the Danube from Passau toward Aschach, a road through a narrow valley with the river on one side and forest on the other, with gentle curves and good surfaces. On the south bank, narrower roads climb up onto the plateau, with steep, winding sections and views back over the valley. The ferries across the river at several points add to the fun: small boats that carry a few cars and bikes across in minutes. Traffic is usually light, though cyclists on the Danube cycle path are numerous in summer.
Above the valley, the Mühlviertel to the north and the Innviertel and Hausruck to the south are rolling, rural regions with small villages, farms and forests, and excellent small roads for exploring. Mornings in the valley are often misty, especially in autumn, and the mist burning off over the river is a beautiful sight.
Facilities in Schlögen are limited to a hotel, a campsite and a few restaurants by the river. The nearest towns with fuel are a short ride away on the plateaus above the valley, and the larger town of Wegscheid in Germany is about twenty kilometres away, so it is wise to fill up before descending into the valley. Try a plate of fresh fish from the Danube or a Mühlviertel speciality, such as dumplings, with a glass of local cider, Most, a traditional drink of the region.