Two thousand years ago, engineers from Lugdunum ran an aqueduct through these hills to carry water from the Gier valley to the Roman city, a channel some eighty kilometres long that bridged valleys on stone arches. Around Mornant, sections of those arches still stand in the fields, weathered and patched with ivy, and stumbling upon them on a back road is one of the quiet pleasures of riding in the Monts du Lyonnais.
Mornant itself is a small market town on the eastern slopes of the hills, with a medieval core, a fortified church and a lively square. The countryside around it is a patchwork of orchards, meadows and woods, and the area is known for its cherries, sold at roadside stands in early summer. From the higher roads, the views stretch across the Rhône valley to the Pilat and, on clear days, all the way to the Alps.
The riding is the main reason to come. The roads through the Monts du Lyonnais are an endless succession of bends, climbs and descents, with small villages and changing scenery. They are close enough to Lyon to be popular on weekends, so expect other bikes, cyclists and families out for a drive. Surfaces are generally good, but watch for gravel and for farm traffic. In autumn, the orchards turn red and gold, and the light is wonderful.
Mornant keeps riders supplied with fuel, groceries and meals, making it a convenient stop for a top-up or a meal. Bakeries offer local pastries, including the praline tart that Lyon is famous for, pink and sticky. The roads south towards Saint-Chamond and the Pilat or east to the Rhône both make good continuations, depending on how much time you have.