On the night of 17 August 1661, Nicolas Fouquet, the superintendent of finances, threw a party at his new château of Vaux-le-Vicomte, a few kilometres north-east of Melun, for the young Louis XIV. There were fireworks, a new comedy by Molière, music by Lully and a banquet served on gold plate. Three weeks later, Fouquet was arrested by d'Artagnan of the musketeers, and he spent the rest of his life in prison. Louis took his architect, painter and garden designer, Le Vau, Le Brun and Le Nôtre, and set them to work on Versailles.
Vaux-le-Vicomte still stands, one of the most perfect châteaux in France, with formal gardens that stretch far into the distance. It is an essential stop if you have the time, and the candlelit evenings in summer are magical.
Melun itself is an old town on the Seine, with its historic heart on an island in the river, a Romanesque church and a pleasant riverside. It is the capital of the Seine-et-Marne department and a busy place, with plenty of services.
The riding around Melun is varied. The roads along the Seine are scenic, the routes across the Brie plateau are open and fast, and the forest of Fontainebleau, just to the south, offers long, shady roads through the woods. Traffic can be heavy around Melun, especially at commuting times. As a finish, Melun offers fuel, food and a chance to reflect on a day in the forests and valleys south of Paris.