Chalamont stands on the highest ground of the Dombes, the plateau of ponds north-east of Lyon, and from its slopes you look out over a strange, watery landscape. There are well over a thousand ponds in the Dombes, most of them created by monks and landowners in the Middle Ages to raise fish and drain the poor, clay soils. They are still farmed in a rotation that dates back centuries: a pond is filled and stocked with carp for a few years, then drained and planted with cereals, before being flooded again.
The ponds attract an extraordinary variety of birds, and the Dombes is one of the most important wetland areas in France. Herons, egrets, grebes, ducks and many other species can be seen, and the Parc des Oiseaux at Villars-les-Dombes, a short ride away, is one of the largest bird parks in Europe. The village of Chalamont has some old timber-framed houses and a church.
The riding on the Dombes plateau is gentle and relaxing. Roads wind between ponds, woods and fields, with frequent gentle bends and very little traffic. Surfaces are generally good. In autumn and early morning, mist often rises from the ponds, creating an atmospheric scene. Watch for wildlife, including deer, and for wet patches in rainy weather.
Fuel and food are available in Chalamont and nearby towns like Villars-les-Dombes and Meximieux. The local speciality is fried frogs' legs, and carp from the ponds is also on the menu in many restaurants. Pérouges, a perfectly preserved medieval village near Meximieux, makes a superb detour.