Hot water bubbles out of the ground at Caldes de Montbui, so hot that it steams in the town square at the Font del Lleó, the lion fountain. The Romans built baths here two thousand years ago, and their remains can still be seen in the centre of town, a remarkable survival. The springs have made Caldes a spa town for centuries, with hotels and baths where visitors still come to bathe in the mineral water.
The town lies in the Vallès Oriental, north of Barcelona, at the foot of the hills that lead up to the Montseny and the Moianès plateau. The landscape is green and varied, with forests of pine and oak, small farms and villages. The cliffs and waterfalls of Sant Miquel del Fai, a monastery built into a rock wall, are a short ride away, and the town of Sant Feliu de Codines sits on a ridge above the valley with views towards Montserrat.
The riding from Caldes is excellent. The roads climb into the hills towards Sant Feliu de Codines and the Moianès, with tight bends, good surfaces and great views. They are very popular with motorcyclists on weekends, so expect company and occasionally fast riding, as well as cyclists on the climbs. The roads towards the Montseny offer more curves and higher altitudes. In summer, the heat can be intense, but the hills provide some relief.
Caldes de Montbui has fuel stations, shops, cafés and restaurants. A coffee in the square near the fountain is a pleasant break, and the town has a long tradition of thermal cuisine, with dishes cooked in the hot water. Tibidabo, the mountain above Barcelona, lies to the south, a satisfying end to a morning loop.