Sceilg Mhichíl, in English Skellig Michael, is a pinnacle of rock rising out of the Atlantic about twelve kilometres off the Kerry coast, and it is one of those places that makes you wonder what kind of person would choose to live there. Monks did, starting somewhere around the sixth to eighth century, building a monastery of beehive-shaped stone huts, terraces and oratories on a ledge some two hundred metres above the waves, reached by roughly six hundred stone steps. They grew what they could, caught fish and birds, collected rainwater, and held services in some of the wildest conditions in Europe, until the community moved away in the thirteenth century. UNESCO listed the island in 1996.
From the mainland, the island is not something you ride to but something you ride toward. The coastal roads of south-west Kerry, such as the Skellig Ring around Portmagee and the Ring of Kerry itself, give long views across the water, and on a clear day the twin humps of Skellig Michael and Little Skellig stand out against the sea. Roads are narrow, winding and often shared with sheep, cyclists and tour buses, so the best approach is to ride slowly, use the pull-ins and avoid the main route in peak summer, when coaches follow each other in convoy. Weather is fickle, and sea mist can come in suddenly, making the bends greasy and the views vanish.
Landings on the island are limited to a small number of licensed boats from Portmagee and other harbours, only in the summer season and only when the sea is calm enough, and many days they are cancelled. Numbers are controlled, so booking well ahead is essential, and the climb is steep, with no handrails in places. If you cannot land, boat trips that circle the island still give a good view.
The nature is part of the story. Little Skellig holds one of the largest gannet colonies in the world, and Skellig Michael itself has puffins in summer, as well as shearwaters and storm petrels. The island has also found a modern audience as a film location for Star Wars, which gave the place a new wave of visitors.
Cahersiveen is the nearest town with fuel and a supermarket, and Portmagee, a small fishing village, has a couple of pubs for chowder and a pint while you wait for the weather.