Sauda sits at the head of the Saudafjord, in a deep valley surrounded by high mountains, and it is a town built on industry rather than tourism. Hydropower was the foundation: the rivers that fall from the mountains drove turbines, and the power in turn fed smelters, which gave work to thousands in the twentieth century. The town's history is also one of mining. At Allmannajuvet, a gorge a short way outside the town, zinc was mined in the early twentieth century, and today the remains of the mine have been turned into a museum, with a striking modern building designed by the Swiss architect Peter Zumthor, part of the Norwegian scenic route programme. It is a rare place where the story of work is told with such care.
The setting is dramatic. The mountains rise steeply around the town, and in winter the sun barely reaches the valley floor, a fact the people of Sauda know well. In summer, long days and green slopes make up for it. The area is also a ski resort, with slopes above the town and a long season, and the Saudafjellet makes the town busy in winter.
For a rider, the roads in and out of Sauda are some of the best in this part of the country. The road from the south climbs over the mountains in long bends, passes lakes and dams, and drops to the town. The surface is good and traffic is light. The road to the north, along the fjord, is narrower and slower. Rain and fog are common, and ice can form on the high sections in autumn and spring. Winter brings snow, and some roads may be closed, so check conditions before you go.
With around four thousand people, Sauda has everything a rider needs: fuel stations, supermarkets, cafés and restaurants, and a choice of places to stay. It is the best place for a proper meal and a rest on this route, and the fuel stop to count on before the empty stretches of the Ryfylke mountains. Try the local bakery for a morning bun and coffee. The town is quiet in the evening, and the sound of water from the river is a constant companion, a reminder of the force that built the place.