Coming back over Sattel is a different experience from going out. In the late afternoon the light comes in low from the west, the Rigi is a long dark shape against the glow, and the saddle at about 790 metres feels quieter. The road here winds along gentle slopes with farms dotted across the meadows and the occasional chapel at a bend. Traffic is light, and if you time it right you will share the road mainly with a few cyclists and the odd tractor.
This is also the corner of Switzerland where the old story of the Confederation is told in battlefields. A few kilometres to the south and east lies the Rothenthurm moor, which became an unlikely symbol of Swiss politics in 1987, when voters approved an initiative to protect the moors of the country and stopped a planned army training ground. It was one of the first times environmental protection won in a national referendum in such a striking way. Close to the Ägerisee, the monument at Morgarten marks the 1315 battle, where mountain men from Schwyz ambushed Habsburg troops on a narrow shore path.
For the ride, the return over Sattel is a chance to settle into a rhythm. The corners are open, the surface is generally smooth, and the gradients are steady. Many riders use it as the final climb of the day before descending toward the lake of Zug, so the pace tends to be relaxed. Early evening in September is lovely, with the smell of cut grass and a faint chill that makes the warm tarmac feel kind.
Unterägeri, about seven kilometres away, is the nearest sizeable town for fuel and food, and the villages of Rothenthurm and Steinen are alternatives. There is often a small restaurant or bakery in Sattel itself, but do not rely on late opening. If you need something to eat, plan it for the valley.
The hills here catch weather from the west, so watch the sky. A shower can sweep in with little warning, and wet leaves on the tarmac get slick in autumn. Take the descent gently, and use the lay-bys if you want to look back at the way you came.