Sary-Chelek means yellow bucket, and nobody quite agrees on why. The name belongs to a lake in the Chatkal range of south-western Kyrgyzstan, a deep, clear body of water at the bottom of a forested valley, which was formed when a landslide, probably set off by an earthquake, dammed the river long ago. The water takes on shades from emerald to deep blue depending on the light and the season, and the shore is fringed with spruce, with walnut and apple woods on the lower slopes, and meadows full of flowers in June. It lies at about 1,900 metres above the sea, and the cold clean air has a scent of pine.
The lake is the centre of the Sary-Chelek State Biosphere Reserve, set up in 1959 and recognised by UNESCO in 1978, and it protects an area of forest and mountain that holds seven lakes in all, with bears, wolves, lynx, Siberian ibex and a long list of birds. The walnut forests of southern Kyrgyzstan, which are among the largest wild walnut woods in the world, are the other great treasure of this region, and the whole area is a biodiversity hotspot. The reserve requires a permit and an entry fee, which you can usually arrange at the entrance or through a local guide.
Reaching the lake is half the adventure. The roads from the lowlands of the Fergana valley climb through hill villages and orchards into the mountains, with sections of tarmac, long stretches of gravel and the occasional river crossing, and a bike with good ground clearance and some off-road capability is the right tool. After rain, the surface can turn to slippery mud, and landslides sometimes cut the way. Distances are longer than they look, and the light fades early in the valleys. Do not plan on riding at night.
Homestays near the entrance offer beds, hot food and tea, and the family will often serve fresh bread with cream and jam, and mutton soup. The best season is from late May to September, with the autumn colours in October. Take warm clothing and rain gear, because the mountain weather changes quickly, and bring cash in small notes, as cards are rarely accepted.