Sarvestan lies on the dry plateau of Fars province, in the south of Iran, about ninety kilometres south-east of Shiraz, and its name means the place of cypresses. The monument that bears the name is a ruined palace or fire temple of the Sasanian period, built in the fifth century, with a great central dome and arched halls of mud brick and stone. It is often said to be one of the oldest domed buildings in the world, and its form is believed to have influenced later Islamic architecture.
The site stands in open country, beside the road, with a wide view over fields and low brown hills. The brickwork has weathered into soft, pale shapes, and the vaults still carry an air of dignity. Nearby are the remains of a small village and a few trees, and farmers work in the surrounding fields. A custodian often keeps the site, and a small fee may be asked.
The ride from Shiraz follows a long road across a high plain, with mountains in the distance and salt flats that sparkle in the sun. Lake Maharloo, east of Shiraz, turns pink in summer from salt-loving algae, a strange and beautiful sight. Fuel is available in the towns along the main road, and it is cheap by international standards, but stations can be far apart, so keep the tank full. Bring water and sun protection, because there is little shade.
The best time to ride is spring or autumn, when the temperatures are mild. Summers are fierce, and winter nights can be cold at this altitude. In Shiraz, the Bagh-e Eram, a garden of cypresses and a nineteenth-century pavilion, makes a fine contrast to this austere ruin: one all shade and water, the other all sun and stone. Together, they tell the story of Persian architecture.