A queen who outlived her husband by more than sixty years lies here. Sareung is the tomb of Queen Jeongsun, wife of King Danjong, the boy king of the Joseon dynasty who was deposed by his uncle in 1455 and later killed in exile. Jeongsun lived on in poverty outside the capital, and the story of her loyalty and grief became one of the most moving in Korean history. Her tomb, a grassy mound guarded by stone figures and approached along a path through pine forest, is one of the forty Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty listed together as a World Heritage Site in 2009.
The Joseon tombs follow strict principles of geomancy, placed with mountains behind and water in front, and their layout, with a red spirit gate, a stone path, a T-shaped shrine and the burial mound on a terrace above, is the same throughout. The forests around the tombs, protected for centuries, are among the most natural woodland near Seoul. Sareung is also home to a nursery of traditional trees, and the setting is peaceful and green.
Namyangju, on the eastern edge of the Seoul metropolitan area, is a mix of city, river and mountain. The Bukhan river and the Han meet nearby at Dumulmeori, a famous spot for misty mornings and photographs, and the riverside roads are popular with cyclists. The mountains around offer good roads with curves and views.
Riding in South Korea has one important rule: motorcycles are not allowed on expressways, so you must use national and local roads. Around Seoul, these are often busy and slow, with many traffic lights. The roads along the Bukhan river toward Gapyeong and Chuncheon are more pleasant, with views of the river and the mountains, and are well known among Korean riders.
Namyangju keeps you supplied with fuel and food. Try the local food, including grilled pork, makgeolli, rice wine, and the dakgalbi of Chuncheon, spicy stir fried chicken, if you ride further east. The tombs are open to visitors with a small entry charge, and are quiet on weekdays.