Sarchu is not a town, and calling it a stop barely does it justice. It is a high, bare plateau at about 4,300 metres, on the boundary between Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh, where the Leh-Manali Highway crosses a wide, windy basin beside the Tsarap river. In the summer season, a collection of tents and camps appear on the plain, serving riders, truck drivers and travellers who need a place to sleep halfway between Manali and Leh, and in winter everything is gone and the snow takes over.
The history is longer than the camps. The route here follows an old trading path between Kullu, Lahaul and Ladakh, along which caravans carried wool, salt, pashmina and grain for centuries. Sarchu was a natural halting place, since the climb from either direction is long and the distances to the next shelter are great. The camps today have simple beds, warm blankets and hot food, usually dal, rice and tea, and they are well used, so expect company.
The riding is some of the most demanding in the world. From Manali the road climbs over the Rohtang and Baralacha La passes, with long stretches of broken tarmac, loose gravel, stream crossings and sharp drops, and after Sarchu come the Gata Loops, a sequence of twenty-one hairpin bends, and the long climb to Nakee La and Lachulung La. Mornings are best, as meltwater on the road freezes overnight and streams swell in the afternoon. The altitude is a danger in its own right: headaches, breathlessness and sleeplessness are common at Sarchu, so go slowly, drink water, and do not rush upward.
Fuel is the practical worry. There is no reliable pump at Sarchu itself, and the last known petrol station before the long gap is at Tandi, a day's ride south, so carry a reserve, and fill up at Karu, near Leh, when you arrive on the other side. Check the news and the road status before you leave, since landslides and snow can close the highway at short notice, and the season usually runs from June to September.
The night here is cold, often below freezing, and the stars are astonishing. Hearing the wind outside the tent and seeing the Milky Way over bare brown hills is the reason people come.