It sits on the edge of the desert, in a basin where irrigation from underground channels allows farms to flourish in a landscape that otherwise looks like Mars, with low, bare, ochre mountains in every direction and a huge sky.
The farms here grow pistachios, barberries, saffron and pomegranates, crops that tolerate heat and poor water, and Iran is the world's leading producer of saffron, much of it from this part of Khorasan. In autumn the saffron crocuses flower for a few weeks, and the fields are picked by hand at dawn, because the petals wilt in the sun. The red stigmas are dried and sold, and a stall in any local market will offer you a tiny packet, with a proud explanation of how to tell the real thing from the fake.
For a rider, the interest is in the emptiness. Roads across the south Khorasan desert run for tens of kilometres without a bend, with the occasional truck stop and police checkpoint, and the temperature changes sharply between day and night. The sky is clear and the stars at night are astonishing. Summer is extremely hot, so plan for spring or autumn, and be careful with fuel, as stations are spaced out and not always supplied. Always top up when you pass one, and carry water, a spare tube and some food.
Roadside teahouses serve strong tea and bread with cheese and walnuts, and the owners tend to be curious and hospitable. Check the foreign-vehicle regulations and permits in advance, since checkpoints in the east of the country are frequent.