Bistrița, the main town of this northern corner of Transylvania, was a Saxon stronghold, and the villages around Sărățel still carry traces of the German settlers who came in the twelfth century at the invitation of the Hungarian kings. Sărățel itself, near the Șieu river, takes its name from a word for salty, and this part of the Transylvanian plain lies over salt-bearing rock, which has produced salty springs and mud for centuries. Cetate means citadel in Romanian, and the second of two hilltops with that name lies about four kilometres from Șieu-Măgheruș.
The hills here are low and open, a patchwork of cultivated fields, grazing land and small woodlots, with soft ridges that run across the horizon. Their shapes explain why defenders built forts on the ridges: they have a clear view for miles.
The Saxon towns and fortified churches of the region make a rewarding detour. Bistrița has a medieval town centre with a Gothic Evangelical church and an arcaded main square. It also has a literary claim: Bram Stoker, who never visited, sent his hero Jonathan Harker through Bistrița on the way to Count Dracula's castle in Dracula, and a hotel in town still bears the name of the Golden Krone he described.
For riders the roads in the plain are broad and gently rolling, with a few steeper climbs, and surfaces that vary from newish asphalt to potholed patches. Traffic is moderate, with trucks on the main routes, and the minor roads are quieter. Watch for horse-drawn carts and animals. In summer, heat can be strong, and storms can form fast. Fuel is easy in Bistrița and in larger villages along the main roads; carry cash for small shops.
Late summer, when the sunflowers and maize are high and the stubble fields are golden, gives the area its best colour.