Sarajevo lies in a steep, narrow valley along the Miljacka river, with mountains close on every side, and the first thing you notice is how much of the city is stacked up the hillsides. Minarets and church towers stand within a short walk of each other, and the old bazaar quarter, the Baščaršija, has copper workshops, cafes serving thick Bosnian coffee from small copper pots, and stalls grilling ćevapi, little skinless sausages served in flatbread with chopped onion. It is a place where East and West meet, and where Ottoman, Habsburg and Yugoslav layers sit side by side.
The city carries a heavy history. In June 1914 Archduke Franz Ferdinand was shot beside the Latin Bridge, which set in motion the First World War. In 1984 it hosted the Winter Olympics, and then, from 1992 to 1996, it endured the longest siege of a capital city in modern times. You can still see scars on the buildings, and the Tunnel of Hope museum near the airport tells the story of the lifeline dug under the runway. Rebuilding has been impressive, and the city is lively now, with cafes open late.
For riders, Sarajevo is a place to arrive, rest and then leave for the mountains. South of the city rise Bjelašnica and Igman, Olympic ski mountains with winding roads and wide views, and the road through the Neretva canyon to Mostar is among the finest in the Balkans, a long sequence of bends past lakes and rock faces. Traffic in the city is heavy and drivers are quick, so ride attentively and watch for tram lines and cobbles that can be slick in rain.
Fuel is plentiful. Foreign riders usually need a Green Card for insurance in Bosnia, so check your documents before the border. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, as summer can be hot in the valley and winter brings cold air and smog. Do not leave without sampling burek and a slice of baklava.