Nobody lives on the Sapodilla Cayes, or at least nobody lives there permanently. They are a scatter of small, sandy, palm-fringed islets at the southern end of the Belize Barrier Reef, the largest barrier reef in the northern hemisphere, and they lie a long boat ride off the coast near Punta Gorda, in Belize's southernmost district of Toledo. The marine reserve that surrounds them protects reef, seagrass and mangrove, and UNESCO included it in the Belize Barrier Reef Reserve System in 1996, along with Glover's Reef, a ring-shaped atoll further north.
The cayes are named for the sapodilla tree, whose chewy sap, chicle, was the original base of chewing gum. The waters are home to hawksbill and loggerhead turtles, nesting on the beaches in the summer months, and to manatees in the shallows closer to the coast, as well as sharks, rays, and the huge aggregations of fish that gather at spawning time. Fishing is regulated here, and local fishermen, divers and the rangers share the space with some tension, and a lot of respect for the rules.
This is not a place you ride to, strictly speaking. The nearest road ends at Punta Gorda, a quiet, friendly town of Garifuna and Maya people on the coast, and from there you need a boat, which means a licensed guide or a tour from Punta Gorda or from Placencia, further north. The sea can be rough, especially in the windy winter months and during the hurricane season from June to November, so choose a calm day and a reputable skipper.
The ride to Punta Gorda is part of the experience. The Southern Highway runs from Dangriga down through citrus groves, jungle and Mayan villages, and the road is paved but patchy in places, with potholes, speed bumps called sleeping policemen, and occasional heavy rain. Fuel is available at Independence and Punta Gorda, though it is wise to fill the tank whenever you can in the south. The dry season, from February to May, is the best time, though also the hottest.
Pack sun cream, a hat, and a small dry bag for your gear. The water is clear and warm, and the reef begins just beyond the beach.