Sanxiantai means Terrace of the Three Immortals, and the name comes from a legend of three Taoist immortals who are said to have rested on the offshore island here. It lies on Taiwan's east coast, near the town of Chenggong, where the sea turns a startling deep blue, and a long arched footbridge, shaped like a dragon's back, runs out to the island across a lagoon. Seen from the shore, with the waves breaking on dark volcanic rock, it has a wild, sculptural look.
The coast here is the homeland of the Amis, one of Taiwan's indigenous peoples, whose festivals, with dance and song in bright costume, are held in summer and are among the most colourful events on the island. The nearby fishing harbour at Chenggong is known for catching marlin and swordfish, and fish markets and seafood restaurants sell the catch. The sea off this coast is deep and swept by the Kuroshio Current, a warm Pacific stream that carries marine life north.
The Provincial Highway 11 is one of Taiwan's most beautiful roads. It hugs the shoreline with the mountains behind, and on clear days the road is quiet, with slow curves, sea views and little traffic. Fishing villages, rice fields and roadside stalls selling pineapples and sugar apples appear along the way. Typhoons from July to October can damage roads and bring heavy rain, and in winter the northeast monsoon can make the coast windy and damp. Spring and autumn are gentle seasons, and the light at dawn, when the sun rises out of the Pacific, is superb.
The island is a mix of rugged rock and sandy patches, ideal for walking, snorkelling and sitting on the rocks with a drink. Facilities on site are simple, with a car park, a few stalls and toilets. For fuel and a proper meal, head to Chenggong or the larger city of Taitung to the south, and carry water on hot days. Rain gear is useful all year.