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Sântioana - Vârful Mortila

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Sântioana sits in rolling country on the edge of the Transylvanian Plain, in Bistrița-Năsăud county, a gentle landscape of low hills, fields, orchards and scattered woods. The hilltop of Vârful Mortila, above the village, is one of the many archaeological places recorded in this part of Transylvania, a high point that would have made a natural lookout or settlement site for earlier peoples. There is little to see on the surface, but the view from the top gives a fine sense of the landscape, with the Transylvanian hills rolling away in every direction and the mountains rising on the horizon.

The area has a strong Saxon heritage. Teaca, a small town about eight kilometres away, was founded by German settlers in the Middle Ages and has a large Gothic church, and the surrounding villages were once home to Saxon farmers, many of whom left for Germany in the late twentieth century. Bistrița, the county capital, is an old Saxon town with a tall church spire, arcaded houses and fragments of its medieval walls, and it is also the town where Jonathan Harker stops on his way to Count Dracula's castle in Bram Stoker's novel. The Borgo Pass of the novel, now the Tihuța Pass, lies to the north east, and its road towards Bukovina is one of the classic rides of the region.

The riding around Sântioana is easy going, with roads winding through the hills, linking villages and small towns. The surfaces vary, with some good stretches and some rough patches, and the side roads may be gravel or dirt. Traffic is light, except near the towns and on the main roads. In summer, the fields are full of sunflowers and maize, and in autumn the woods turn gold and red. Watch out for horse-drawn carts, which are still common in rural Romania, especially on minor roads and in the evening.

Fuel is available in Teaca and the larger towns, but not in every village, so plan your stops. Mărișelu and Șieu are small communities with basic shops. The food in this part of Transylvania is hearty, with sour soups, stews, sausages and pastries, and the local wines from the hills around Teaca have a long tradition. The weather is continental, with warm summers, cold winters and afternoon storms that can be sudden and heavy.

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