The road threads through the mountains of Nan province near the Laotian frontier, and it is one of those routes that makes you slow down simply to look. What you can say honestly about this country is that it is wild, empty and beautiful, and that riding it is a pleasure in the old sense of the word.
The landscape is rolling mountain forest, with teak, oak and bamboo on the lower slopes and cooler, mossy woods above. Hill villages appear in clearings, with wooden houses on stilts, rice drying on mats, chickens and pigs wandering across the road, and smoke rising from kitchens. This is a mixed corner of Thailand, with ethnic groups such as Hmong, Mien, Lua and Thai Lue living side by side, and the markets and festivals reflect that. Around the turn of the year, wild cherry trees flower on the high ridges in the north of the province, which brings a flush of pink to the hillsides.
Riding conditions change with the season. In the cool, dry months, from about November to February, the air is clear and the mornings are cold, with mist lying in the valleys until the sun burns it away. This is the best time, with firm surfaces and wide views. In the rainy season the road can be slippery, with mud, fallen branches and sometimes landslides, and the leeches come out in the woods. The bends are tight and the gradients steep, with frequent blind corners, so ride within your sight and keep to your side, because trucks and pickups swing wide on the corners.
Facilities are thin. Chiang Klang, about thirty-three kilometres away, and Nan city, a little farther, are the nearest places to fill the tank and buy supplies, so do not set out on a low tank. Small shops in villages sell water, snacks and sometimes fuel in bottles, but quality varies. Carry a spare tube or a repair kit if you have one, because a puncture a long way from anywhere is a slow business.
Stop in a village if you can, have a bowl of noodles and an iced tea, and listen to the quiet. The people are friendly, and a few words of Thai, such as thank you, make a difference.