Santiago, on the south-western side of the historic core, is one of the districts where Cusco feels like a working town rather than a museum. The square and its small church sit among streets lined with shops, workshops and houses that were once on the edge of the Inca city. The Spanish named it after Saint James, their patron in battle, the one who was said to appear on a white horse to help the conquistadors, and the Cusqueños transformed him into a figure linked with thunder and lightning, a good example of how two beliefs merged.
Santiago is not on most itineraries, which is its charm. The streets here are busier and a little scruffier than the postcard centre, with fruit sellers, mechanics and households going about their lives. Nearby, markets sell meat, cheese, herbs and the many varieties of potato that grow in the Andes, and a plate of fresh trout or a bowl of chicken soup in a family eatery costs a fraction of the tourist prices a short walk away.
Riding in this part of the city needs care. The roads are steep, narrow and mostly cobbled or patched, with a stream of minibuses, taxis and trucks mixing with pedestrians. Altitude slows you, so allow extra time, and watch the manholes and gutters, which can be unprotected. Rain makes the stones slick, and on the steepest slopes a small bike can struggle two-up. Try to keep to the main avenues and park in a guarded space overnight.
Fuel is easiest on the broad avenues just outside the old core, and several stations lie a few minutes from the square. Cusco's altitude, around 3,400 metres, means a bike may feel flat, but it should run normally once you are moving. For repairs, small garages are found on the outskirts, and many mechanics are used to working on small and mid-sized motorcycles.
Mornings are best, when the markets are in full swing and the light slants sharply down the narrow streets.