Santa Teresa lies in the cloud forest on the eastern slopes of the Andes, in the valley of the Urubamba River, and it is one of the places where the mountains give way to the jungle. At about fifteen hundred metres, the air is warm and damp, the hillsides are covered with coffee, bananas and avocados, and the sound of water is everywhere. The village is small and rough around the edges, and it is best known as a back door to Machu Picchu, which lies over the ridge to the east, reached by walking along the railway from the hydroelectric station nearby.
The road to get here is a legendary one among adventure riders. From Ollantaytambo it climbs through the high pass of Abra Málaga, at around 4,300 metres, where cold fog and wind blow across the grass, and then descends in tight bends through increasingly lush forest to the warm valley below. The surface is a mix of paved and gravel, and parts of the road are narrow, with steep drops and landslides in the wet season. Rain, mud and fog can make the descent challenging, and it is wise to ride with care and keep your speed down. The best period is the dry season, from May to October.
Fuel in the valley is limited, so fill up in Ollantaytambo or Quillabamba before heading in, and carry water, food and a repair kit. Santa Teresa has a few shops, simple restaurants and guesthouses, and the thermal springs nearby, known as Cocalmayo, are a good place to soak after a long day. Food is simple and hearty, with fresh fruit, rice, fish from the river and good coffee grown on the slopes. Prices go up in the high season, so be prepared to bargain.
The valley is rich in wildlife, with colourful butterflies, orchids and birds, including the Andean cock-of-the-rock, which is the national bird of Peru. The jungle smells of wet earth and flowers, and insects can be a nuisance, so bring repellent. Seen from the road, the contrast between the cold, bare pass and the hot green valley is dramatic, and it gives a good sense of how much variety Peru packs into a short distance. Take it slowly, enjoy the descent and breathe in the warm air.