Santa Teresa is a village in the cloud forest of the Cusco region of Peru, in the valley of the Urubamba river, and it lies at the end of a long, rough road from the Sacred Valley. The village is small and rustic, set among coffee and fruit farms and surrounded by steep green mountains, and it is one of the main routes to Machu Picchu for those who do not want to take the train. Hot springs at Cocalmayo, a short distance from the village, are a popular place to relax, and the people here grow coffee, avocado and bananas. The nearest towns are Santa Ana and Ollantaytambo, a long way off.
The road from the highlands over the Abra Málaga pass, at about 4,300 metres, is spectacular. It climbs through high puna grassland, with snow peaks and llamas, and then drops through cloud forest to the jungle edge. The route is partly paved and partly gravel, with hairpins, landslides and river crossings, and in the rainy season, from November to March, it can be dangerous. Mist and rain are common, and the temperature changes from cold at the pass to hot and humid in the valley. Be careful on narrow bends, and watch for trucks and buses.
The history here is deep. The Inca built roads and terraces throughout the valley, and the route between Ollantaytambo and Machu Picchu was an important link. Many travellers walk from the hydroelectric plant along the railway to Aguas Calientes, a few hours away. Machu Picchu, built in the fifteenth century and abandoned after the Spanish conquest, was brought to the world's attention by Hiram Bingham in 1911. Tickets for the site are limited and must be booked ahead.
Fuel is a point of concern: carry enough from Cusco or Ollantaytambo, as pumps in the valley are rare, and stations at the roadside may sell fuel from bottles. In Santa Teresa, there are small hostels and cafes, and you can have fresh coffee, trout and fried bananas. The dry season, from May to September, is the best time to ride. At dawn, mist rises from the forest, and the quiet is only broken by birdsong.