Via Saragozza runs south-west from the city's old gate, the Porta Saragozza, toward the hills, and it is the start of the longest portico in the world, the covered way that climbs to the Sanctuary of San Luca. The arcades begin at the gate, run along the street, and then, from the monumental Arco del Meloncello, begin to climb in earnest, a long, steady ascent of steps, ramps and arches that carries pilgrims and joggers up the hillside. It is a favourite local walk, and on summer evenings it fills with people.
Santa Caterina, the neighbouring street, is a narrower, quieter lane lined with old houses, small shops and cafés, a good way to see the less polished side of Bologna. The area is mostly residential and feels like a neighbourhood, with washing hanging from windows, bicycles chained to railings and small groups of neighbours chatting on the pavement. It is an easy place to spend an hour, and one of the best spots for finding the sort of everyday restaurant where the locals eat.
For a motorcyclist, this side of the city is the gateway to the best roads. From Casalecchio di Reno, a larger suburb on the edge, you can follow the Reno valley or climb into the Apennines, with winding roads through chestnut woods, small villages and open farmland, and in spring the slopes are covered with blossom. The roads here are popular with riders from all over northern Italy, and on a fine weekend you will share the bends with plenty of other bikes, as well as cyclists, who train on the hills in large numbers.
The centre is a restricted traffic zone, so it is best to park outside the walls and walk to the arches. Fuel, shops and cafés are never far away, since Bologna and Casalecchio have everything you could want. The hills can be hot and hazy in summer, with temperatures in the mid thirties, and cool and clear in autumn.
The sanctuary on the hill has a long tradition. According to legend, a Greek hermit brought an icon of the Virgin to the hill in the twelfth century, and it has been honoured ever since, with a procession carrying it down into the city each year. Whether or not you share the faith, the walk up is worth the effort for the view from the top.