At the top of Sani Pass the ground levels off, and you are standing on the roof of southern Africa. The summit sits at around 2,874 metres, and the pass is the only road that climbs the Drakensberg escarpment between South Africa and Lesotho. The air is thin, the wind often sharp, and the landscape up here is open grassland and rock, without a tree in sight.
The Sani Top Chalet is the place most visitors aim for. It is a small mountain lodge that claims the title of the highest pub in Africa, and it has earned a legend for warming up frozen riders with a hot meal and a drink. Whatever you think of the claim, the chalet is a welcome sight after the climb, and the view from the terrace, which looks back down the zigzags and across the valleys of KwaZulu-Natal, is worth a coffee.
The border with Lesotho is here, and formalities take time. Both the South African and Lesotho posts need to be cleared, and you will need your passport, vehicle papers and insurance. Opening hours are limited, so check them before you leave and do not plan to arrive close to closing time. If the weather turns, the pass can be closed, and the border staff will tell you what to expect. Sani Top is where many riders turn around after a short visit, while others carry on into the highlands.
If you continue, the road toward Mokhotlong, around forty kilometres away, crosses high plateau country that feels like another planet. Basotho herders in thick blankets and rubber boots tend sheep and goats, and the villages are clusters of round stone huts with thatched roofs. Thaba Ntlenyana, the highest peak in southern Africa at about 3,480 metres, lies in the same range. The ground is often wet and the temperature low, with frost at night even in summer.
Fuel is scarce and unreliable in this part of Lesotho. Mokhotlong has some services, but it is wise to carry spare fuel if you plan to go beyond it and to keep your tank topped up from Underberg before the climb. Dress warmly, bring snacks and water, and allow plenty of time for the descent.